In 1929, Elizabeth Bergner Hancock published a 234-page paper on the social structure of fashion. Eighty years later, while the trends have changed, the sociology behind her writing has remained the same.

She argues that the more competitive gender must be more fashionable. Because there are usually more women than men, women must compete to get attention.

I would assume it would be even more competitive when you go to a school with a high ranking for the “hottest girls.”

In one sentence, she explains the social structure that motivates fashion at ASU.

“In larger communities with fluctuating population, fashion plays a more important role and its influence is greater,” Hancock said.

Even within a huge university, there is a certain fashion ideal that everyone recognizes. During the winter months, we can resemble our east-coast college counterparts. Boots, big sunglasses, scarves and ASU sweaters all come out of the closet, but we’re all pretty much wearing someone else’s outfit.

ASU doesn’t have a fashion major, yet it is more fashion-conscious and image-conscious than your typical college. Not that that’s a bad thing. Fashion is one industry that isn’t going to struggle as much as other so-called “luxury” industries in these economic hard times.

It isn’t considered so much a luxury anymore as it is a utility to wear your idea of what you believe. Fashion isn’t senseless; even if you believe the girls wearing it to be so, fashion is a social cue.

Unfortunately, little has been done to study the psychology behind what motivates people in first-world countries to put so much effort into their clothes, or asks the question: What motivates people to dress well?

Over the last week, one woman who has stood out in America for her fashion choices is Michelle Obama. Instead of choosing to wear a gown made by Vera Wang or Donna Karan, Obama wore a dress custom-made by Jason Wu, a small designer who emigrated from Taiwan to the U.S.

Worldwide, fashion is a power struggle. In Iran, mandating every woman to cover her hair with a scarf and avoid wearing nail polish or makeup is a symbol of the regime’s strength over its citizens.
Morality squads watch public streets to make sure women are obeying the sanctions. Any woman who does not follow the rules risks being beaten.

In “Reading Lolita in Tehran,” Iranian author and English professor Azar Nafisi describes her struggle to wear the mandated clothing in class, knowing that it is a symbol of a regime that she does not believe in.

Fashion, whether worn by women in power, women in oppression or women just attending a state university, contain many hidden social cues. The clothing people wear says something about who they are and the society they live in. It shows how socially ambitious they are.

Remember: When you pay $80 for a jacket, you’re not just paying for the fabric.

Melissa is wearing a sweater and jeans. Contact her at
melissa.silva@asu.edu.