Fashion exhibition flies high

11-09-09 Art
A new exhibition at the Phoenix Art Museum showcases the work of late fashion designer Geoffery Beene. Many of his pieces are grouped together on mannequins suspended in the air.(Branden Eastwood | The State Press)
Published On:
Monday, November 9, 2009
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Whimsical gowns and decorated garments hang from the ceiling at “Geoffery Beene: Trapeze,” an exhibition that opened Saturday at the Phoenix Art Museum.

The collection was lent entirely from Patsy Tarr, a New York dancer and magazine editor whose wardrobe was personalized by Beene between 1980 and 2004.

Complemented by colorful walls and low lights, Beene’s dresses, jumpsuits and various accessory pieces are grouped together on mannequin forms suspended above colorful circular platforms.

The forms, designed by Abbott Miller of the New York design firm Pentagram, are incomplete and fragmented, making Beene’s pieces appear totally independent, as if suspended in air on their own.

With the pieces — like boleros, tunics and vests — clustered together, viewers must walk around the circular platforms, ducking around outside pieces to catch a glimpse of the inner pieces.

The surreal effect of peeking between forms contributes to the circus-inspired theme introduced by the exhibition’s name — “Trapeze.”

Individually, the pieces also share that circus sense of lightness and adventure. Bold and conceptual, the pieces toe the line between ready-to-wear and high art.

Even more, the pieces evoke curiosity about the woman they were created for: Who was Patsy Tarr? Where did she wear this gown adorned with point d’esprit lace and fuzzy pom-poms, scarves made entirely of geometric shapes or gloves etched with childish drawings? What sort of life did she lead? Was it, as Beene’s designs imply, a circus?

These questions might not be answered by the designs or Tarr herself, but the exhibition does give insight into Beene’s design process.

Tracing the edges of the round platforms below the suspended pieces are quotes from the enigmatic high-fashion designer.

Surrounding his artistic process, the quotes have an effect of intimacy.

They give Beene, who died in 2004, a rare chance to put his work in context for viewers.

“The future is in weightlessness. Everything has to get lighter but the brain,” one platform reads.

Beene knew what he was talking about.

His designs are both timely — nearly every designer in the late ’80s and early ’90s tried to emulate his playful, structured silhouettes — and timeless. His style could find a place among today’s structure-oriented collections from designers like Phillip Lim and Proenza Schouler.

“To pick up something flat, like fabric, and give it human dimension, that is what matters,” another platform reads. “You see it is barely there. Beauty and the least.”

The exhibition will have its official opening reception on Nov. 11 at the Phoenix Art Museum.

Patsy Tarr and Abbott Miller will be in attendance.

Visit phxart.org for more information.

Reach the reporter at jessica.testa@asu.edu.