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Phoenix 'resto-bar' offers Mexican fusion dishes


Whether looking for a date spot, happy hour or lunch with friends, diners will find the reasonable prices and savory cuisine of Ticoz to be a pleasant solution.

Don't hesitate because of the modest outer appearance of the new Phoenix "resto-bar;" although the sign reads "Tacos, Burgers and Cocktails," the menu offers much more, as does the interior of this small space on Seventh Street just south of Camelback Road.

Ticoz brings a modern feel to old Mexican favorites, using ingredients like lime and chipotle liberally and introducing touches of Mediterranean and Asian flair to its familiar menu options. The "resto-bar" is divided just as its label suggests: a sophisticated bar lounge on one side featuring cushy black leather couches and small round tables perfect for appetizers and drinks, and a large dining area on the other with soft lighting and sharp, red accents.

The prompt and courteous service in Ticoz immediately diffuses any fears diners may have that its trendy, urban decor accompanies the aloof attitudes so common among the wait staff in other establishments of its type. Servers are friendly and helpful when it comes to decisions such as which salad to choose - a difficult task when considering the array of elements (grilled peaches, blood oranges, candied pineapple, dried plums, macadamia nuts, jicama, corn croutons and hearts of palm, to name a few) that pop in to make each salad delicious in a an original way.

When the tough decisions are over, patrons can relax and sip on one of Ticoz's unique mojitos or enjoy an appetizer. While the dips, including a combination of guacamole and hummus ("guacammus") and a spicy queso, deserve little special attention, the complimentary chips and salsa trio is more than enough, offering a flavorful pico de gallo, a sweet and zesty pineapple salsa, and the house-made sauce: a thick tomato paste with a hint of lime and the smoky undertone of chipotle, which also smothers the enchiladas.

The House Enchiladas are topped with cheddar, jack and queso fresco as well and garnished with lime, adding a tasty new twist to an old menu favorite. The Grilled Burrito is another Mexican staple infused with something new: it rolls the typical rice, beans and cheese together with avocado and chipotle cremas whose flavors dance in your mouth.

Ticoz offers burgers garnished in six different ways and sandwiches like the Tortas, served on grilled flatbread and filled with shredded pork complimented with goat cheese, tamarind and cilantro, or shredded chicken. Entrees are garnished either with pinto beans accented by queso fresco and rice flavored with lime, or with passion fruit slaw - a sweet, fruity new take on your typical coleslaw.

Dishes can be ordered vegetarian, stuffed with grilled veggies or with chicken, beef, shrimp, pork or tilapia. Slightly pricier steak and seafood options are also available.

Although desserts aren't highlighted on the menu, Ticoz does offer a series of sumptuous options, with old favorites such as a chocolate chip and macadamia nut brownie and pineapple upside-down cake, as well as less familiar selections like eggnog creme brulee and bread pudding with chocolate and tortilla chips.

Best of all, an entire meal can be enjoyed for a reasonable price, allowing one to enjoy the savory meal and pleasant atmosphere with no pocket remorse, which is surely a recipe for a return visit to see what else Ticoz has to offer the taste buds.

Reach the reporter at: jessica.kokal@asu.edu.


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